18 September 2024

The art-filled riad reigniting the bohemian spirit of Marrakech

18 September 2024

Motorbikes growl and splutter as they swerve through narrow side streets. Donkeys laden with colourful fabrics bray and huddle in the shade. Above the noise and chaos, the muezzin’s soothing voice rings out from the minaret of the Koutoubia Mosque announcing the evening call to prayer.

There is never a quiet moment in Marrakech, Morocco’s enchanting, sense-spinning tourist city. But a year ago, this area of western Morocco was rocked to its foundations by a 6.8-magnitude earthquake. More than 2,900 people were killed and 5,500 injured in the natural disaster, which heavily impacted rural areas in the nearby Atlas Mountains and parts of the ancient city.

Twelve months on, the country is rebounding, and buildings are slowly being repaired. Tourist numbers are also recovering, a relief for the owners of IZZA who had the misfortune of opening just before the earthquake struck.

Located in a quieter northern section of the walled Medina, the cool, bohemian property has quickly gained attention for its striking design and commitment to community.

Originally purchased by a tech-boom entrepreneur as a holiday home, it soon grew into a major hospitality project when neighbouring families offered to sell their properties – evidence of a growing trend for Moroccans seeking a new life in the modern parts of the city.

Named after the original Berber owner Izza, the riad became a paean to legendary interior designer Bill Willis, a fast-living, fun-loving maverick who masterminded projects for the likes of fashion designer Yves Saint-Laurent.

Mosaic tiled stairwells and statement fireplaces are inspired by his work, while photographs and letters documenting his life decorate the walls of Bill’s Bar (a nostalgic tribute to Rick’s Cafe in Casablanca and Humphrey Bogart’s famous hang-out in the Hollywood classic).

The result is a riad that’s become much more than a comfortable place to sleep. It’s a hub for for art, culture, gourmet dining and – above all – having fun.

Here’s the lowdown on what to expect…

Art and design

Creativity lies at the heart of IZZA. Presented as the Museum In The Medina, a £5million collection of 300 contemporary artworks are spread throughout the property, include the world’s largest physical collection of NFTs. Key highlights include photographic portraits of Moroccans by artist Leila Alaoui.

IZZA also supports local emerging artists through one-year programmes, providing a space to create and display works and access to a wider audience.

A new boutique stocks bespoke pieces by local artisans.

The rooms

In a riad, no rooms are delightfully ever the same. But each of the 14 hideaways at IZZA – all named after socialites and creatives from the 1960s and 1970s – has its charm. Cosy Brion (named after artist and writer Brion Gysin) is tucked away at the end of a courtyard and has a tadelakt fireplace lit on cold winter nights; Grace (after model Grace Jones) has a vintage copper roll-top bath; and Marianne (a nod to musician Marianne Faithfull) is a sumptuous suite with a lounge area and private terrace.

Wooden doors can be locked with a heavy iron key, but in the family-style home there never feels like any need.

Shared spaces

As winding and labyrinthine as the layout of the nearby souk, the maze-like structure of the riad creates several inviting nooks and communal spaces.

Decorated in a mosaic of emerald zellige tiling – a heavenly colour associated with peace in Islam – the long pool is an inviting place to cool off after a dusty day of sightseeing.

A small spa offers massages and a hammam, while an air-conditioned gym has a treadmill, Peloton bike and rowing machine.

Dominated by a show-stopping fireplace, the library features a curated collection of books reflecting life in Morocco and the characters who have leant their names to rooms in the riad. Guests can borrow copies at their leisure – although all editions of 1001 Arabian Nights have mysteriously disappeared.

Food and drink

Rooftop spaces are precious in Marrakech, a cooling space to escape the heat of the day and watch a parade of pink hues illuminate the sky at dusk.

Breakfasts and evening meals – an excellent selection of mezze dishes – are served on IZZA’s top floor. Ingredients are all local: spices from the souk, meat from organic farms and fish from a sustainable supplier at the coast.

How to plan your trip

Rooms at IZZA start from €220/£185 per night including breakfast, airport transfer and a 45-minute massage. Visit izza.com.

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