“I feel like cabbage is so underrated,” says Philli Armitage-Mattin.

“It’s one of the most cost-effective vegetables that, when treated right, becomes a highlight of many restaurant-goers’ meals. Let me share with you how restaurants make cabbage the most delicious dish you eat.”

Smoky hispi cabbage with chilli oil

Ingredients:(Serves 4 as a side)

1 hispi cabbage or sweetheart cabbage2tbsp olive oilLarge pinch of salt2tbsp butter or plant-based butter½tbsp lemon juice6tbsp mascarpone, softened1tbsp shop-bought chilli oil½ bunch chives, chopped2tbsp crispy shallots

Method:

1. Peel away the outer leaves and quarter the cabbage.

2. Heat a large frying pan (preferably cast iron) with olive oil and sprinkle salt over the cut side of the cabbage.

3. Sear the cabbage on the cut sides until all the surface is charred.

4. Flip so the cut side is face up and add enough water to just cover half of the cabbage, as well as the butter.

5. Allow to poach until all the water is evaporated, turning the cabbage gently with tongs every five minutes. The cabbage should be completely tender. When the water has nearly evaporated, turn off the heat and coat the cabbage in the melted butter from the pan using a spoon. Finish with the lemon juice.

6. Whisk the mascarpone with a fork and smear it onto a plate using the back of a spoon. Add the cabbage and drizzle with the remaining butter and chilli oil, then top with chopped chives and crispy things.

Taste everything all together and adjust; if you want more spice, add chilli oil or if it’s too hot add more mascarpone.

Taste Kitchen: Asia: Six Flavours To Suit Every Taste by Philli Armitage-Mattin is published by Robinson, priced £26. Photography by Phoebe Pearson. Available September 1.