“I’ve always had a taste for the salty bite of Stilton, particularly those cheeses made in Leicestershire by makers such as Long Clawson Dairy and Tuxford & Tebbutt Creamery, and the masala tamarind potatoes in this recipe bring out the cheese’s rich intensity,” says food writer Gurdeep Loyal.

“It’s all toasted until everything melts together, revealing a spectrum of spiced savouriness in every bite. This is unapologetic British Indian hybridity at its utmost – multifaceted flavour-on-flavour made in toastie form – and it is sublime.”

Stilton and tamarind Mumbai toastie

Ingredients:(Makes 2)

For the tamarind potatoes:1tbsp ghee1½tsp coriander seeds, crushed1½tsp fennel seeds, crushed1 large potato, boiled and mashed1 small red onion, very finely chopped1 green chilli, very finely chopped1tsp fine sea salt2tbsp gunpowder masala, or garam masala, plus 1tsp4tbsp Tamarind, Date & Mint Sauce, or bottled tamarind table ketchup, or brown sauce, plus more to serve2tbsp chopped coriander leaves

For the toasties:4 thick slices of white bread2tbsp unsalted butter, very soft, plus more for spreading4tbsp thick sev, plus more to serve150g Stilton cheese, crumbled

Method:

1. To make the tamarind potatoes, gently heat the ghee in a saucepan, then add the crushed coriander and fennel seeds, sizzling for one minute. Mix in the mashed potato, red onion, green chilli, salt and gunpowder or garam masala. Turn up the heat to medium, add the tamarind sauce, ketchup or brown sauce and cook for two to three minutes. Finish by mixing through the coriander, then leave to cool.

2. Heat a toastie maker or sandwich grill so it’s hot. (If you don’t have one, these can just as easily be made in a griddle or frying pan).

3. Spread the inside of two pieces of bread with butter, then spoon over a thick layer of the tamarind potatoes. Sprinkle over the thick sev for some crunch. Butter the other slices of bread then generously crumble over the Stilton. Press the two slices together.

4. Mix the two tablespoons of very soft butter with the one teaspoon of gunpowder or garam masala, and spread over the outsides of the sandwiches. Grill for three to four minutes, until the bread is nicely toasted and the Stilton oozing out. Serve with extra tamarind sauce for dipping and thick sev for even more crunch.

Mother Tongue: Flavours Of A Second Generation is published by Fourth Estate, priced £26. Photography by Jax Walker. Available March 2.